This is my journey through Nepal’s Khumbu region to reach the infamous Everest Base Camp, a trek tens of thousands of tourists attempt every year. It is assumed that anyone can complete this 14 day trek however I soon discovered not everything is as easy as it seems! Thankfully I have a good level of fitness and even stronger mental willpower which saw me push through the barriers of fatigue, altitude sickness and harsh weather conditions to complete the trek in only 9 days. It is definitely as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one, and no one can predict or control the effects of altitude on the body. For me it was a matter of staying positive and keeping my eye on the prize… A glimpse of the worlds highest peak, the mighty Mount Everest! I kept telling myself that if you want to see and achieve great things you have to work for it, as they say- nothing comes free in this world! I could have caught a mountain flight and viewed Everest from above, but where’s the fun in that?! At times I questioned why I would put myself through such an ordeal but ultimately the satisfaction received by achieving exactly what you set out for is something I will never forget. The muscle stiffness and knee pain will fade but the memories, the pride and the exhilaration of standing before the foot of the worlds highest mountain will be with me always.
During the 9 day journey I passed so many different landscapes. Everyday was a new valley, new surroundings, and new flora and fauna. The higher the altitude, the friendlier the locals became and surprisingly the more eco the communities were. Nothing much grows over 4000m and solar power and dung fueled fires replaced the wood burning facilities of lodges at lower elevations. The views got more and more breathtaking and I had to peel my eyes away from the scenery to focus on staying on the trail. On numerous occasions I was pinned up against the bank by a yak carrying an outrageous load and i learned the hard way that the working horses don’t like to be touched. Lucky escape from a nasty horse bite! It’s not only the animals I had to be weary of, the porters can also be a hazard. Apparently they think it’s a laugh to bump females of the trail with a flick of their huge loads, my guide Binod got really fired up about it but I think they were jealous I was carrying my own backpack and not using their services! I must admit the stares and looks of wonder as I walked by supporting my own load gave me great satisfaction. Maybe a little over confident, by the end of it I was questioning my sanity and whether the pain was really worth it!
We passed by the Tengboche Monastery at 3900m where I attended prayer and meditation with the monks. This is the same monastery Hillary and Tenzing Norgay stopped off at in 1953 to pay their respects and receive blessings for their successful expedition. It’s a great sense of pride to be a Kiwi in these parts, thanks to Sir Ed and all the good he has done for this region and its people, New Zealanders are an inch above all other nationalities in the eyes of the Sherpas. Cheers Ed, 60 years since his record breaking expedition the legend still lives on. Not all expeditions have been as successful as his, the hundreds of memorials passed along the way are a constant reminder of how life and death are not far apart on Everest. It’s sobering to see the devastation of fatalities in the mountains, reinforcing the importance of safety above all else. On another matter, Everest has had a lot of slack in regards to rubbish and environmental sustainability. From what I have heard and experienced myself I can safely say the situation seems to have improved. Many foreigners such as Sir Edmund Hillary have set up charities and foundations to help educate the local population and preserving the natural environment has now become a priority. I know this wasn’t always the case and it may have something to do with the pricey government permits which are forced upon each trekker. The money is said to go towards local communities and the conservation of the Sagamatha National Park.
Although we were very blessed with the weather, there was nothing that could be done about the freezing cold winds ripping through the valleys or the bone chilling nights after the sun goes down. With every passing day we reached higher and higher altitudes which meant colder and harsher conditions. On day 6 I was starting to feel as though I weighed a million tons and was ready to throw my 12kg backpack in the fire. Desperation saw me pay a local Sherpa kid $10 to carry my bag up a 300m steep incline to Lobuche. I still claim I carried it 9/10ths of the way! It wasn’t until this point at 4900m that things started to get really tough. It was here I first felt the side effects of spending too much time without enough oxygen. It began with a headache and soon my appetite had been replaced by waves of nausea. Binod started forcing garlic soup into me which is meant to thin the blood which becomes thick at high altitudes. Every afternoon while others rested and relaxed once arriving at the destination we would continue on up for another hour or so, helping the body acclimatise and rest better at the lower altitude. This was the only precautionary measure taken and i was kicking myself for not taking the suggested ‘rest’ days which are meant to assist in the acclimatisation process. It was a depressing night listening to the snow falling outside, being so close to the end goal and not knowing whether my body would allow me to continue. After succumbing to altitude drugs as a last resort I was feeling slightly better and at 5am it was time to prepare for the final hurdle, the push to base camp and back.
Due to my sudden onset of altitude problems it was decided that instead of staying at the final village of Gorak Shep at 5200m we would put in a long day of walking to return back to Lobuche where the altitude is slightly lower. It also meant that I would be free of my backpack for this stage of the journey. Departing at 5.30am we set off in the crisp clear morning and returned 9 hours later feeling on top of the world! The trail was relatively easy but the altitude, ice, snow and rocks made it treacherous. Following the Khumbu Glacier (another worlds biggest!) we eventually spotted a few brightly coloured tents in the middle of the ice and rocks. Scaling across the ever changing glacier was undoubtedly the most dangerous part of the entire trip, it was at this point I wished I had ropes and a harness. Instead in true Nepali style I was told to have faith and solider on, meanwhile trying to ignore the cracks of ice breaking off and the rumble of distant avalanches. After passing thin ridges with deep crevices on either side I arrived near the base camp tents to discover that you aren’t actually allowed to enter the expedition camp. A few pictures would have to do! The other let down was the fact that Everest was hidden behind all the other gigantic mountains for most of the day. The few glimpses I did catch were just of the snowy tip, but with the beautiful blue back ground that was enough. Being surrounded with a 360 degree view of 7 of the worlds biggest mountains was incredible, it’s not everyday you are in the presence of so many 8000m peaks all at once. On the way back I gatecrashed a NZ flag found in a restaurant and stuck a mugshot (passport photo) of myself onto it to prove that I really was here. Definitely a day to remember!
On the way down it was possible to cover two days worth of walking in one, not that the knees appreciated it much. The smallest thing like spotting a colourful butterfly gave me a buzz of excitement, finally back to elevations where things can actually grow and survive. During the trek I was lucky enough to see lots of natural wildlife including musk deer, Himalayan rats, rabbits and birdlife. Arriving back to Namche Bazaar, the popular trekkers mountain hub was a huge relief. Finally a decent feed, yes in true spirit we pigged out on pizza and cheeseburgers washed down with a beer or two! Here the altitude and climate is bearable and it helps to have Internet access to touch base with loved ones. We are currently stranded here due to bad weather, not that I mind too much! The mountains feel much more homely to me than the hustle bustle of busy Kathmandu. In fact I haven’t heard a single vehicle or car horn in over 10 days… bliss! A helicopter is due to pick us up and take us directly to the capital first thing in the morning, apparently this is much safer than travelling out of the Lukla airport where there was a crash only last week.
Looking back on the pictures I’m sure I will remember this experience as a trek of a lifetime, however the truth is there was a fair amount of blood, sweat and tears. (Ok no blood but definitely a lot of sweat and the odd tear!) I have left the Himalayas with a huge sense of achievement, sporting an Everest face tan to match! A nice change from the jandal tan I normally return from holidays with. With the North Face gears, zip off pants and cap I totally looked the part, although I don’t know when they’ll next see the light of day. My hand-me-down boots on the other hand have definitely done their dash, miraculously without a single blister they have served me well. It’s nice to see a local porter benefit, usually they run up and down the mountains in nothing but plastic sandals. If only I could help them all, at least one pair of Sherpa feet will be kept dry and warm for years to come. I’ll miss the heart warming cries of ‘namasteeeeeee’ as you pass a stranger on the path, the sounds of early morning birds and rushing rivers, the towering peaks and the fresh mountain air. For now there is a new path calling, one which involves cutting back on the adventures and utilising what these experiences have taught me to find peace and fulfillment in everyday life. Very much looking forward to facing the next life phase with new perspectives and a fresh outlook. Bring on the home comforts of reuniting with my loving and supportive friends and family!
SPIRITofSAMMY 