Within 2 hours of landing on Nepal soil I had arranged a trek to leave first thing the next morning, yes that eager to get straight into it! After a full on 5 weeks in India I was definitely ready for some peace and quiet and fresh mountain air. Apparently I timed it perfectly as the monsoon rains finished 2 days earlier. I soon learned the hard way that this did not mean the leeches were also gone, it was impossible to escape the nasty bloodsuckers from feasting on my feet! My guide, Binod (which means the friendly/talkative one in Nepali) was great company, always full of enthusiasm and he definitely lived up to his name! We spent 5 relaxing days strolling, sharing, telling stories, singing, laughing, listening to Bob Marley and soaking in the scenery. Binod talked to everyone en route and we found ourselves stopping off to drink Tibetan tea with locals, accepting snacks of fresh cucumber from the farmers, watching buffalo being killed, playing games with kids on their way to school and smoking mountain herb with the mountain folk (Binod not me!)
On the day of departure we encountered some issues getting to the starting point. It was the first day of the Teej Festival. There were rituals happening, music playing and women dressed in beautiful red saris congregating all over the road. This festival is ancient tradition where women wear red, fast, and make offerings to the Hindu God, Lord Shiva in order to be blessed with a good husband. Because of this the streets were even busier than normal and the buses cancelled. After weaving in and out of the celebrations we arrived at our starting point in the Shivapuri National Park.
I was warned that in the beginning there was a lot of uphill and steps to conquer. Well, bit of an understatement. From the get go my body was shocked into functioning in power mode again. 28 days of meditations directly before 3 weeks of trekking may not have been the best idea! I was also cursing myself for bringing so much along in my backpack. Turns out the big first aid kit I lugged uphill was much needed.
Unfortunately the thrill of my first day in the Himalaya was shattered when coming across an unconscious man with a lot of blood. My guide was able to communicate with him and discover he too was a trekking guide. He and his British client had been attacked and robbed by 4 men with sticks moments earlier. We left them with some bandages and ran ahead to find help in the form of the Gurka Army who are stationed across the National Park. Binod told me not to be fearful as he is a black belt in Karate and he can fight 4 men no problems. To be honest I was terrified and looking over my shoulder for the rest of the way. Within an hour word had spread across the villages and a manhunt carried out by the army. Later we met up with the two attacked and apart from being black and blue and shaken up they were thankfully ok. The scary thing is that could have easily been my guide and I. Apparently this kind of thing is uncommon and the army and policed seemed to take it very seriously.
This wasn’t the only problem I was to encounter. As I mentioned I arranged my trek on a whim and was so keen to get into it that I didn’t ask enough questions and it soon appeared that there were some miscommunications somewhere along the line. I had asked what my budget should be for the duration of the trek and the company gave me a daily amount which I assumed was the total amount. Turns out everything is 3 times the price in the mountains and the National Park fee’s (we passed through two) had increased and were just as steep as the mountains in them! All of this information failed to reach me so here I am, budget backpacker wary of theft (and rightly so) carrying a minimal amount of cash. After 2 full days of walking I arrived at the Langtang National Park checkpoint where army men with guns check your entry pass very seriously. It didn’t take me long to realise I couldn’t afford the entrance. My guide assured me there was no other way, I was gutted but wasn’t going to let it ruin my trip. I spent the rest of the evening trying to keep positive while comforting myself with chocolate and kicking myself for being so ill prepared. Later Binod called me to the dining area of our guest house. The family which we were staying with that evening generously offered to lend me some money which I could pay back when I made it back to Kathmandu. I couldn’t believe it, this was sure to be a huge sum of money to them but they were adamant they wanted to help me. I was overcome with gratitude, the Nepalese are truly lovely, friendly, happy and hospitable people.
The next day continued as per normal and as we climbed to an elevation of 3800m I began to feel the altitude. This is higher than Mount Cook, NZ’s highest peak. The clouds made it hard to see anything but the next morning I was up at 6am to climb to the top of the peak and watch the sunrise over towering snowy peaks. It was truly magical sitting in the sunshine watching the pristine mountains surrounded by wildflowers, Himalayan birds and butterflies. This is what I call living life!
During the 5 days we passed through 3 distinct districts, Kathmandu, Nuwakot, and Shinduplachok each with its own culture and language. The people from this region are said to originate from Tibet and are devoted Buddhists. The prayer flags, stupas and monastery’s along the way made the trek not only physical but also very cultural. I was invited into the home of a family where there were numerous pictures of the Dalai Lama and a shrine with candles. The mood was set with a pot of burning rosemary and pine, used as an offering to evoke the Buddha. I was able to partake in prayer and sit with the family throughout the evening. I also visited and meditated in a cave in the mountainside where it is said that the famous Guru Rinpoche spent many days meditating. The village people live such simple lives, full of natural beauty and dedication to the land and animals. During the day it is impossible to see someone not working. From tending to the fields, feeding and caring for the animals, carrying huge loads from one village to another, preparing food, cleaning, fetching water, drying corn and wheat and even standing watch with a slingshot to make sure the birds don’t get your vege patch. Every family member has their role. A land with so much history, culture, religion and tradition! Not to mention the curious, kind, smiling people who inhabit the beautiful hills, mountains and valleys.
On the final day we sped down the mountain valley, climbing over slips and scaling landslides in order to catch the bus to Kathmandu on time. We came across a sherpa from a nearby village who led us on some treacherous local trails, lucky he was an old fella otherwise there would’ve been no way to keep up. We arrived in the village of Thimbu only to find there was a strike happening and this means that no buses run whatsoever. I needed to be in Kathmandu because of my ‘Explore the Nepal’ Tour starting the next day. The only option was to splash out a small Nepalese fortune for a private jeep which transported the helpful Sherpa, my guide and I. Because of the recent monsoons the road conditions were suspect but the driver wasn’t phased as we sped up and down dirt track shortcuts, hooning past the valley villages, and bumping along cliff faces. The views were spectacular and made up for the scare-factor of the 4 hour journey.
After 5 days of inclines and declines (no such thing as flat in Nepal) I’m well and truly ready for a break. One can only handle so many leeches, cold bucket showers, and dal bhat. Time to rest up the muscles, and get the body in tip top shape for Everest in 2 weeks time. My guide informed me at the start of the trip of a popular saying in Nepal, ‘come as a guest, leave as a friend’ and this has definitely been the case. Binod went above and beyond his call of duty by not only being my guide but also my Nepali language teacher, my masseur after a long days trekking and eventually my friend. We will meet again to tackle 2 weeks in the Everest region together. This awesome 5 days has given me a small taster of what’s to come… Most certainly loving Nepal and all that it has to offer!