Coast to Coast Milestones

From Coast to Crash in 2014 to Coast to Coast in 2015 I have one very dedicated and committed father who, once he sets his mind to something will stop at nothing to achieve it! Like father like daughter I guess… This time I tell not my tale but the story of the journey my Dad has been on surrounding the infamous annual Coast to Coast adventure race. This is an inspirational transformation which was documented in the press in the build up to this years event, read more here

Father and son crossing the finish line

Three months on and the adventure and endorphin’s from this years event are long gone, what remains is a large shining trophy and a lasting taste of success. When Dad first signed up for the Coast to Coast he was nearing the 50-year-old mark and I thought it was nothing but an extreme case of mid-life-crisis. He sure proved me wrong! Competing in one of the worlds most prominent multi-sport events is no easy feat. Not only did he compete, he also set himself a lofty goal of being the first 50-year-old across the finish line. Something he is proud to have achieved. Especially after coming so close to the finish line last year, only to wipe out on the final bike stage ending up with concussion and a broken collarbone.

River Crossings during the Goat’s Pass Mountain Run

Back with a vengeance, with help from his sponsor Ben Warren, BePure and PT sessions with Renee Riley from Bay Fitness motivation was at an all time high. This year was also a family affair with my ridiculously athletic brother, Danny participating alongside Dad, offering a competing edge of encouragement. With the help of my Aunty & Uncle, Mum and I did our bit on the sidelines, carting gear and cheering loudly. As us three kids flew the coup a number of years ago now, it was pretty awesome being involved in something so significant as a family. Even more important is that we all share the same ideals of health and wellness, knowing that being active is a lifestyle choice not a short fix.

Danny begining the 80km Waimakariri River Kayak Stage, Dad right behind

After two days of hard yakka the work paid off, 14 hours and 37 minutes later and our boys crossed the line, triumphant. 22nd equal overall and Dad first in his age category. Exhausted yet enthused, our competitors proudly left the prize giving hall, knowing they would be back. No telling when… Even I (the most uncompetitive person I know) could be tempted. Seeing the buzz which comes from such an achievement is enough to light a small flicker of interest in the best of us. We couldn’t have done it without such a great support crew, you know who you are, Thank-you. Big kudos to the whole Coast to Coast organisation for such a fun, smooth sailing event. We’ll see ya when we see ya!

For anyone interested in learning more about the event, check out the Coast to Coast Website

Life’s Garden

 During my travels I have had the pleasure of visiting a very unique universal community, Auroville in Tamil Nadu-Southern India. Founded in 1968, Auroville is an ongoing human experiment whereby world citizens live together in order to transform the planets consciousness. The progressive township is also concerned with sustainable living and the environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind.

“Auroville wants to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realise human unity.”

These guys take the word ‘hippy’ to the next level… although their beliefs do hold some important meanings. The essence of Auroville is beautifully displayed in the pictures below. Take an enlightened walk, as I did through this garden and be reminded of the simple pleasures of life. I find it refreshing to reflect on these qualities and how I apply them in my life. May each petal of the flower brighten up your thoughts and attitudes by bringing together both nature and spirit. The perfect combination for the garden of life!

Further information can be found at: http://www.auroville.org/

Catching a Glimpse of the Highest Point on Earth

This is my journey through Nepal’s Khumbu region to reach the infamous Everest Base Camp, a trek tens of thousands of tourists attempt every year. It is assumed that anyone can complete this 14 day trek however I soon discovered not everything is as easy as it seems! Thankfully I have a good level of fitness and even stronger mental willpower which saw me push through the barriers of fatigue, altitude sickness and harsh weather conditions to complete the trek in only 9 days. It is definitely as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one, and no one can predict or control the effects of altitude on the body. For me it was a matter of staying positive and keeping my eye on the prize… A glimpse of the worlds highest peak, the mighty Mount Everest! I kept telling myself that if you want to see and achieve great things you have to work for it, as they say- nothing comes free in this world! I could have caught a mountain flight and viewed Everest from above, but where’s the fun in that?! At times I questioned why I would put myself through such an ordeal but ultimately the satisfaction received by achieving exactly what you set out for is something I will never forget. The muscle stiffness and knee pain will fade but the memories, the pride and the exhilaration of standing before the foot of the worlds highest mountain will be with me always.

During the 9 day journey I passed so many different landscapes. Everyday was a new valley, new surroundings, and new flora and fauna. The higher the altitude, the friendlier the locals became and surprisingly the more eco the communities were. Nothing much grows over 4000m and solar power and dung fueled fires replaced the wood burning facilities of lodges at lower elevations. The views got more and more breathtaking and I had to peel my eyes away from the scenery to focus on staying on the trail. On numerous occasions I was pinned up against the bank by a yak carrying an outrageous load and i learned the hard way that the working horses don’t like to be touched. Lucky escape from a nasty horse bite! It’s not only the animals I had to be weary of, the porters can also be a hazard. Apparently they think it’s a laugh to bump females of the trail with a flick of their huge loads, my guide Binod got really fired up about it but I think they were jealous I was carrying my own backpack and not using their services! I must admit the stares and looks of wonder as I walked by supporting my own load gave me great satisfaction. Maybe a little over confident, by the end of it I was questioning my sanity and whether the pain was really worth it!

We passed by the Tengboche Monastery at 3900m where I attended prayer and meditation with the monks. This is the same monastery Hillary and Tenzing Norgay stopped off at in 1953 to pay their respects and receive blessings for their successful expedition. It’s a great sense of pride to be a Kiwi in these parts, thanks to Sir Ed and all the good he has done for this region and its people, New Zealanders are an inch above all other nationalities in the eyes of the Sherpas. Cheers Ed, 60 years since his record breaking expedition the legend still lives on. Not all expeditions have been as successful as his, the hundreds of memorials passed along the way are a constant reminder of how life and death are not far apart on Everest. It’s sobering to see the devastation of fatalities in the mountains, reinforcing the importance of safety above all else. On another matter, Everest has had a lot of slack in regards to rubbish and environmental sustainability. From what I have heard and experienced myself I can safely say the situation seems to have improved. Many foreigners such as Sir Edmund Hillary have set up charities and foundations to help educate the local population and preserving the natural environment has now become a priority. I know this wasn’t always the case and it may have something to do with the pricey government permits which are forced upon each trekker. The money is said to go towards local communities and the conservation of the Sagamatha National Park.

Although we were very blessed with the weather, there was nothing that could be done about the freezing cold winds ripping through the valleys or the bone chilling nights after the sun goes down. With every passing day we reached higher and higher altitudes which meant colder and harsher conditions. On day 6 I was starting to feel as though I weighed a million tons and was ready to throw my 12kg backpack in the fire. Desperation saw me pay a local Sherpa kid $10 to carry my bag up a 300m steep incline to Lobuche. I still claim I carried it 9/10ths of the way! It wasn’t until this point at 4900m that things started to get really tough. It was here I first felt the side effects of spending too much time without enough oxygen. It began with a headache and soon my appetite had been replaced by waves of nausea. Binod started forcing garlic soup into me which is meant to thin the blood which becomes thick at high altitudes. Every afternoon while others rested and relaxed once arriving at the destination we would continue on up for another hour or so, helping the body acclimatise and rest better at the lower altitude. This was the only precautionary measure taken and i was kicking myself for not taking the suggested ‘rest’ days which are meant to assist in the acclimatisation process. It was a depressing night listening to the snow falling outside, being so close to the end goal and not knowing whether my body would allow me to continue. After succumbing to altitude drugs as a last resort I was feeling slightly better and at 5am it was time to prepare for the final hurdle, the push to base camp and back.

Due to my sudden onset of altitude problems it was decided that instead of staying at the final village of Gorak Shep at 5200m we would put in a long day of walking to return back to Lobuche where the altitude is slightly lower. It also meant that I would be free of my backpack for this stage of the journey. Departing at 5.30am we set off in the crisp clear morning and returned 9 hours later feeling on top of the world! The trail was relatively easy but the altitude, ice, snow and rocks made it treacherous. Following the Khumbu Glacier (another worlds biggest!) we eventually spotted a few brightly coloured tents in the middle of the ice and rocks. Scaling across the ever changing glacier was undoubtedly the most dangerous part of the entire trip, it was at this point I wished I had ropes and a harness. Instead in true Nepali style I was told to have faith and solider on, meanwhile trying to ignore the cracks of ice breaking off and the rumble of distant avalanches. After passing thin ridges with deep crevices on either side I arrived near the base camp tents to discover that you aren’t actually allowed to enter the expedition camp. A few pictures would have to do! The other let down was the fact that Everest was hidden behind all the other gigantic mountains for most of the day. The few glimpses I did catch were just of the snowy tip, but with the beautiful blue back ground that was enough. Being surrounded with a 360 degree view of 7 of the worlds biggest mountains was incredible, it’s not everyday you are in the presence of so many 8000m peaks all at once. On the way back I gatecrashed a NZ flag found in a restaurant and stuck a mugshot (passport photo) of myself onto it to prove that I really was here. Definitely a day to remember!

On the way down it was possible to cover two days worth of walking in one, not that the knees appreciated it much. The smallest thing like spotting a colourful butterfly gave me a buzz of excitement, finally back to elevations where things can actually grow and survive. During the trek I was lucky enough to see lots of natural wildlife including musk deer, Himalayan rats, rabbits and birdlife. Arriving back to Namche Bazaar, the popular trekkers mountain hub was a huge relief. Finally a decent feed, yes in true spirit we pigged out on pizza and cheeseburgers washed down with a beer or two! Here the altitude and climate is bearable and it helps to have Internet access to touch base with loved ones. We are currently stranded here due to bad weather, not that I mind too much! The mountains feel much more homely to me than the hustle bustle of busy Kathmandu. In fact I haven’t heard a single vehicle or car horn in over 10 days… bliss! A helicopter is due to pick us up and take us directly to the capital first thing in the morning, apparently this is much safer than travelling out of the Lukla airport where there was a crash only last week.

Looking back on the pictures I’m sure I will remember this experience as a trek of a lifetime, however the truth is there was a fair amount of blood, sweat and tears. (Ok no blood but definitely a lot of sweat and the odd tear!) I have left the Himalayas with a huge sense of achievement, sporting an Everest face tan to match! A nice change from the jandal tan I normally return from holidays with. With the North Face gears, zip off pants and cap I totally looked the part, although I don’t know when they’ll next see the light of day. My hand-me-down boots on the other hand have definitely done their dash, miraculously without a single blister they have served me well. It’s nice to see a local porter benefit, usually they run up and down the mountains in nothing but plastic sandals. If only I could help them all, at least one pair of Sherpa feet will be kept dry and warm for years to come. I’ll miss the heart warming cries of ‘namasteeeeeee’ as you pass a stranger on the path, the sounds of early morning birds and rushing rivers, the towering peaks and the fresh mountain air. For now there is a new path calling, one which involves cutting back on the adventures and utilising what these experiences have taught me to find peace and fulfillment in everyday life. Very much looking forward to facing the next life phase with new perspectives and a fresh outlook. Bring on the home comforts of reuniting with my loving and supportive friends and family!

Tea House Trekking on the Helambu Circuit-Langtang

Within 2 hours of landing on Nepal soil I had arranged a trek to leave first thing the next morning, yes that eager to get straight into it! After a full on 5 weeks in India I was definitely ready for some peace and quiet and fresh mountain air. Apparently I timed it perfectly as the monsoon rains finished 2 days earlier. I soon learned the hard way that this did not mean the leeches were also gone, it was impossible to escape the nasty bloodsuckers from feasting on my feet! My guide, Binod (which means the friendly/talkative one in Nepali) was great company, always full of enthusiasm and he definitely lived up to his name! We spent 5 relaxing days strolling, sharing, telling stories, singing, laughing, listening to Bob Marley and soaking in the scenery. Binod talked to everyone en route and we found ourselves stopping off to drink Tibetan tea with locals, accepting snacks of fresh cucumber from the farmers, watching buffalo being killed, playing games with kids on their way to school and smoking mountain herb with the mountain folk (Binod not me!)

On the day of departure we encountered some issues getting to the starting point. It was the first day of the Teej Festival. There were rituals happening, music playing and women dressed in beautiful red saris congregating all over the road. This festival is ancient tradition where women wear red, fast, and make offerings to the Hindu God, Lord Shiva in order to be blessed with a good husband. Because of this the streets were even busier than normal and the buses cancelled. After weaving in and out of the celebrations we arrived at our starting point in the Shivapuri National Park.

I was warned that in the beginning there was a lot of uphill and steps to conquer. Well, bit of an understatement. From the get go my body was shocked into functioning in power mode again. 28 days of meditations directly before 3 weeks of trekking may not have been the best idea! I was also cursing myself for bringing so much along in my backpack. Turns out the big first aid kit I lugged uphill was much needed.

Unfortunately the thrill of my first day in the Himalaya was shattered when coming across an unconscious man with a lot of blood. My guide was able to communicate with him and discover he too was a trekking guide. He and his British client had been attacked and robbed by 4 men with sticks moments earlier. We left them with some bandages and ran ahead to find help in the form of the Gurka Army who are stationed across the National Park. Binod told me not to be fearful as he is a black belt in Karate and he can fight 4 men no problems. To be honest I was terrified and looking over my shoulder for the rest of the way. Within an hour word had spread across the villages and a manhunt carried out by the army. Later we met up with the two attacked and apart from being black and blue and shaken up they were thankfully ok. The scary thing is that could have easily been my guide and I. Apparently this kind of thing is uncommon and the army and policed seemed to take it very seriously.

This wasn’t the only problem I was to encounter. As I mentioned I arranged my trek on a whim and was so keen to get into it that I didn’t ask enough questions and it soon appeared that there were some miscommunications somewhere along the line. I had asked what my budget should be for the duration of the trek and the company gave me a daily amount which I assumed was the total amount. Turns out everything is 3 times the price in the mountains and the National Park fee’s (we passed through two) had increased and were just as steep as the mountains in them! All of this information failed to reach me so here I am, budget backpacker wary of theft (and rightly so) carrying a minimal amount of cash. After 2 full days of walking I arrived at the Langtang National Park checkpoint where army men with guns check your entry pass very seriously. It didn’t take me long to realise I couldn’t afford the entrance. My guide assured me there was no other way, I was gutted but wasn’t going to let it ruin my trip. I spent the rest of the evening trying to keep positive while comforting myself with chocolate and kicking myself for being so ill prepared. Later Binod called me to the dining area of our guest house. The family which we were staying with that evening generously offered to lend me some money which I could pay back when I made it back to Kathmandu. I couldn’t believe it, this was sure to be a huge sum of money to them but they were adamant they wanted to help me. I was overcome with gratitude, the Nepalese are truly lovely, friendly, happy and hospitable people.

The next day continued as per normal and as we climbed to an elevation of 3800m I began to feel the altitude. This is higher than Mount Cook, NZ’s highest peak. The clouds made it hard to see anything but the next morning I was up at 6am to climb to the top of the peak and watch the sunrise over towering snowy peaks. It was truly magical sitting in the sunshine watching the pristine mountains surrounded by wildflowers, Himalayan birds and butterflies. This is what I call living life!

During the 5 days we passed through 3 distinct districts, Kathmandu, Nuwakot, and Shinduplachok each with its own culture and language. The people from this region are said to originate from Tibet and are devoted Buddhists. The prayer flags, stupas and monastery’s along the way made the trek not only physical but also very cultural. I was invited into the home of a family where there were numerous pictures of the Dalai Lama and a shrine with candles. The mood was set with a pot of burning rosemary and pine, used as an offering to evoke the Buddha. I was able to partake in prayer and sit with the family throughout the evening. I also visited and meditated in a cave in the mountainside where it is said that the famous Guru Rinpoche spent many days meditating. The village people live such simple lives, full of natural beauty and dedication to the land and animals. During the day it is impossible to see someone not working. From tending to the fields, feeding and caring for the animals, carrying huge loads from one village to another, preparing food, cleaning, fetching water, drying corn and wheat and even standing watch with a slingshot to make sure the birds don’t get your vege patch. Every family member has their role. A land with so much history, culture, religion and tradition! Not to mention the curious, kind, smiling people who inhabit the beautiful hills, mountains and valleys.

On the final day we sped down the mountain valley, climbing over slips and scaling landslides in order to catch the bus to Kathmandu on time. We came across a sherpa from a nearby village who led us on some treacherous local trails, lucky he was an old fella otherwise there would’ve been no way to keep up. We arrived in the village of Thimbu only to find there was a strike happening and this means that no buses run whatsoever. I needed to be in Kathmandu because of my ‘Explore the Nepal’ Tour starting the next day. The only option was to splash out a small Nepalese fortune for a private jeep which transported the helpful Sherpa, my guide and I. Because of the recent monsoons the road conditions were suspect but the driver wasn’t phased as we sped up and down dirt track shortcuts, hooning past the valley villages, and bumping along cliff faces. The views were spectacular and made up for the scare-factor of the 4 hour journey.

After 5 days of inclines and declines (no such thing as flat in Nepal) I’m well and truly ready for a break. One can only handle so many leeches, cold bucket showers, and dal bhat. Time to rest up the muscles, and get the body in tip top shape for Everest in 2 weeks time. My guide informed me at the start of the trip of a popular saying in Nepal, ‘come as a guest, leave as a friend’ and this has definitely been the case. Binod went above and beyond his call of duty by not only being my guide but also my Nepali language teacher, my masseur after a long days trekking and eventually my friend. We will meet again to tackle 2 weeks in the Everest region together. This awesome 5 days has given me a small taster of what’s to come… Most certainly loving Nepal and all that it has to offer!