The Khmer Rouge Killing Fields

As the working week comes to an end I’m reflecting on everything I have learned and experienced over the past few days… It’s hard to believe that two short weeks ago I was living and working in Perth, competing in the Australian corporate rat race and running myself into the ground with stress. Here I am now, in one of the worlds most corrupt and struggling nations putting life back into perspective. And perspective I got, it is impossible to shelter from the poverty and pain which is apparent on the worn Khmer faces in the dusty and dirty Phnom Penh streets.

To fully understand Cambodian history it was important for me to delve into the horrors of genocide which took place here from 1975 to 1979. Far too often journeys into the past result in trauma and heartache, as painful as it is valuable life lessons lie in tragedies been and gone. Having the chance to visit Choeung Ek, one of many ‘killing fields’ scattered throughout Cambodia was an emotional and sensitive experience. I joined a group of 12 volunteers and piled into the minibus which took the same route that women, men and children from Phnom Penh’s S-21 prison would have taken to their final execution.

Visitors lay bracelets on the mass graves in tribute to the dead

I was feeling a little apprehensive about such an atrocity being viewed as a tourist attraction. Thankfully the whole experience was very respectful and informative as each visitor receives an audio guide in their native language thoroughly explaining the Khmer Rouge history from a number of different perspectives. The entire complex was completely silent which felt sacred and respectful. At first glance, the gardens and surrounds may be appreciated for their nature and beauty… yet looking closer you feel in your heart the taint of death and tragedy. What a mix of emotions!

First- a little background history. Pol Pot, a communist leader took power in Cambodia in 1975 following the Cambodian Civil War. This time became known as the Khmer Rouge. His radical social reforms and beliefs resulted in the slaughter of approximately two million Cambodian’s during a four-year period. Pol Pot viewed anyone with an education or religious beliefs as a threat to his communist ideology and ordered the deaths of millions of innocent, educated and talented people. Children also bore no use to him and the mentality  “To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss” was routinely applied. Overnight all ownership was lost, businesses were gone, hospitals and schools closed and the monetary system abolished. Cities were emptied within days, families to never see each other again. Those fortunate enough to escape were forced into regional labor camps . These agricultural communes were no sanctuary from death and starvation and exhaustion claimed the lives of many.

Bones and cloth continue to be found after heavy rain  in the Killing Fields

Political prisoners and any others believed to have betrayed the state were detained in the city before being transported to Choeung Ek with zero knowledge of what lay ahead. It is said from the torture they had suffered that many would have welcomed death. Nevertheless, the treatment they received at the hands of the Khmer Rouge Army goes down as one of the worst crimes of humanity. Up to 300 people arrived per day at Choeung Ek and with limited military supplies death was more often than not achieved by brutal force. 86 Mass graves were discovered in 1979 containing up to 9000 bodies of men, women and children. All of this taking place in the late 1970’s, a time when my parents were growing up in safe and sheltered communities. Seeing a memorial of 700 cracked skulls has a huge impact on oneself, bringing the whole experience back to reality (I couldn’t bring myself to take photos of this).

The criminal trials of Pol Pot’s right hand man and Khmer Rouge Head of State are still ongoing in Phnom Penh and justice, if there is such a thing may finally be served. However most believe it is too late. Pol Pot will face his demons in the afterlife as he passed away seemingly peacefully and undisturbed in 1998.   The injustices and scars this nation carry as a result of his regime  is something neither you nor I can completely comprehend. As i walked out the gates of the Killing Fields, I said a short prayer that those fallen may never be forgotten and if possible, may the rest in peace. A swarm of brightly coloured butterflies seemed to understand as they gracefully fluttered above the green grass blades.

The Killing Tree

 

Tamil Nadu- Chennai & Beyond

I’ve been let loose in India’s south, having escaped the compound that is Oneness University! Luckily for me I had 3 spare days in between courses and an old uni friend who works in Chennai. After the sheltered daily routine at Oneness it was a shock to the senses to be thrown back into the crazy Indian street life.

There are a few differences compared to the North, for example the men here rock the old school mo-tash and it’s a sign of masculinity to sport a big dirty mustache. In contrast they also wear something called at Dhoti which is basically cloth wrapped around as a skirt. People answer you by wobbling their heads side to side, it’s up to you to work out the meaning which could be either yes, no, maybe or I don’t know! The language here is Tamil and unique to this area, even my Indian buddy cannot communicate with the locals who do not speak Hindi. Christianity has a much bigger following here in the South, adding to the already large list of religious groups in India. One of the apostles, St Thomas is said to have brought Christianity to India right here in Chennai in AD58. I visited the site of his Martyrdom and the cave which he was supposedly imprisoned in and later escaped from.

When traveling my mantra is generally ‘do as the locals do’. Well I can proudly say I have sampled traditional southern food, visited local beach life, viewed a Bollywood blockbuster and traveled by local buses with no air conditioning and raging Hindi music. My first Bollywood movie experience was a film called Chennai Express, thankfully with English subtitles. Turns out the singing, dancing and acting is not bad quality. The air con and atmosphere is also top-notch. Most interesting is the reactions of the audience who cheer, clap, whistle, scream and dance throughout. Got to love the Indian enthusiasm!

Aside from Chennai we ventured to a number of interesting smaller towns. Auroville is an international village where all inhabitants are working in the eco community for a sustainable future. Spending a few hours here definitely gives off a strong hippy vibe. The concepts and ideals began in the hippy movement of the 60s and today foreigners from all over the world flock here for a life of simplicity, peace and solitude.

Next stop was Pondicherry, a bustling beach side town with a French touch. The French settled here and as a result you can find a vast mixture of Anglo-Indians, new age Indians, tourists, and travelers who may be visiting one of the many local Ashrams. Spirituality is at large and many of the Oneness teachings are reinforced here. The fishing trade is evident by the number of boats dotted out in the Arabian Sea and the stench of the marketplaces which are a hype of activity. Too much hustle and bustle for this country kid!

The smaller and more laid back tourist destination of Mamallapuram was much more my scene. Also on the beachfront this historic village is a hub of archeological sites. During my visit there were a cluster of school groups who were captivated by a white westerner. The number of ‘photo’ requests and questions such as, ‘hi how are you?’ and ‘miss, what is your name?’ were too much. They all wanted to touch me and shake my hand to introduce themselves, very sweet but after 10 minutes I was ready for a break from my role as the token foreigner. The temples are sculptures here were amazing, well worth fighting off herds of kids for!

A big thank you must go to Harsh for being my host, tour guide, negotiator, body guard, and travel accomplice! Great to touch base with friends in foreign lands, knowing a local definitely makes the experience that much more real. Now it’s time to go back to the safe confines of the Oneness Uni campus… 2 more weeks of learning and meditations and I’ll be on my way to Nepal. Bring on the tranquility and scenery of the Himalaya!