The Everest Base Camp adventure begun bright and early at the Kathmandu Domestic Airport. Because the destination, Lulka is set high (2800m) in a basin of mountains it was highly likely that the flight would be delayed due to cloud. However my biggest worry came during check in when I realised I would be carrying a 12kg backpack to the bottom of the worlds highest mountain and back again. My guide, Binod assured me that I need not be lazy and waste my money on a porter, instead he would train me up until I had the strength of a donkey! My nerves were already on edge even before discovering our tiny and ancient aircraft could only accommodate 10people and there was no division between the pilots and the passengers. I tried not too think too much about the risks of flying in these conditions and tough terrain, instead focussing on the stunning mountain views. The pilots have to be highly skilled to land at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport, considered the most dangerous airport in the world where the runway is on a 12degree angle and a mere 460 metres. On landing the plane directly turns around and returns to Kathmandu up to 30 times per day. Let’s just say I was glad when the 25min flight was over!
The first piece of advice i received was to get out of the way of horses, donkeys, yaks and naks (a cross between a cow and a yak). The path is overcrowded with these beasts who don’t stop for anyone so it’s very important to stick to the bank when encountering one of these animals. The loads they carry are unbelievable, between them and the sherpa porters villages of the Khumbu are well stocked with all the supplies necessary for the booming tourism trade. After seeing elderly sherpas carrying ridiculous loads with stuffed backs and legs I asked my guide why they put their bodies through such torment. The answer is that these sherpas have no other options, tourism is their livelihood. The business of transporting goods across mountainsides is the only way to survive, earn money and support their family. As I am here at the beginning of the trekking season (monsoon has just finished) you can really see the preparations for the coming season. This huge influx of tourists is what keeps these mountain folk afloat and ties them over for the coming year. But all of this comes at a price… The sustainability of the local environment is a huge concern. Although gas for cooking and heating is becoming more common there are still many guest houses which burn wood and rubbish. Pollution and the destruction of the environment are some of the negative effects of tourism in this area, although there are a number of initiatives focused on improving this.
Thankfully for me the trail to Base Camp isn’t too overcrowded, yet! In fact we were the only guests at the Buddha Lodge on day one. The first day was nice and easy, easing slowly into what is going to be a long and challenging couple of weeks. Lucky for me I found a very fitting book and spent the entire afternoon delving into it. One of the things I love most about the Himalaya is the Tibetan Buddhist influence. During the day we pass under many prayer flags, view devotions and puja ceremonies taking place, walk past sacred rocks with Buddhist paintings, spin prayer wheels and always walk to the left of any spiritual monument- all of these represent blessings and good luck for the journey ahead. I managed to finish the book by Lama Yeshe which provided me with more of a background into Buddhism and tantra in particular, very interesting! The more I learn about different religions the more I realise the basis and true nature of all are the same. It’s a shame that in todays modern society religious beliefs are far from unified and have instead been turned into forces for politics, power and conflict.
Just as the book was fitting, the guest houses en route offer Everest documentaries every evening. I’m not sure if this is a good idea or not, as you know many of these docos end tragically. Into Thin Air even made me teary eyed and I was sure I was going to have nightmares. It does make you think about the motives and sacrifices many make for this mountain. It is common belief that the mountain knows your intentions and if you do not show it respect it can have dire consequences. And it’s not only the expedition groups which encounter trouble, the constant whir of rescue helicopters flying overhead rings home the risks involved with trekking at such altitudes. The Sherpas treat Everest as the devine mother, and always ask permission and blessings before setting foot on her. They say the mountain chooses you, not the other way round. Many westerners do not understand the sacredness involved, instead driven by egotistical desires of conquering the worlds most renowned peak. It’s embarrassing knowing that foreigners are not well liked or respected by the local people. If it wasn’t for the money we bring with us I doubt we would be welcome at all. A number of disrespectful trekkers leave a negative impact by ignoring local cultures, ruining the environment by leaving their mark, littering, and making unreasonable demands of guides and porters. If only we all shared the travelling mantra of leaving nothing but footprints and taking nothing but photos and memories.
Trekking really gets you back to basics and its such a refreshing vibe to be out surrounded by nature all day with no modern distractions. Evenings are spent playing simple childhood games such as hangman, join the dots and noughts and crosses. It’s also a mission to complete a book in one evening as I’m not willing to put even a little extra weight in my heavy and overflowing backpack. It was nice having a day free to wander and acclimatise. No rest for the wicked though, Binod runs a tight ship and it was 5am start to climb the hill for clear morning views. Still a bit of cloud around so no views of Everest yet, plenty of time for that! Not only do we set off early, rest stops and breaks are strictly limited. Binod seems to be very committed to making me as strong as a donkey! I’m not sure I want to be a donkey… Haha either way I’m confident he is going to help me achieve my goal of standing before Everest at a hight of 5650m, 60 years after Sir Edmund Hillary first summited. Stay tuned to find out!
Binod & I on our early morning stroll over Namche Bazar- 3600m
SPIRITofSAMMY 